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It tasted like morning in the early fall, with hints of seltzer and wood smoke. I stocked up at the last gas station in town and checked my maps for the phone number to the Pie-O-Neer café in Pie Town. I had already accepted that clinging to the hope it would be open on a national holiday was a futile at best, but I had heard entire legends formed around the pie in Pie Town. That one stop was likely my only shot at human interaction in the next 300 miles, so even a futile chance was certainly worth a try.

GNS] The Iron Riders, as I’ve named them in my book, were a group of African American soldiers that rode bicycles at Fort Missoula, Montana in the 1890s. African American Soldiers at that time were usually known as Buffalo Soldiers. The term Buffalo Soldier came from the American Indians who interacted with the black soldiers in what were called the Indian Wars. After the Indian Wars were over there were a few years during which these soldiers were in Forts, in the American West, without an active battle to fight.

We stopped to do hikes off the route and to talk to the locals. But we kept our pace steady, managing to average about 70 miles a day with only two days of rest. We wanted to enjoy the ride, but we also saw it as a great challenge, so we pushed ourselves. Riding The Divide is an experience. Seeing such incredible scenery, day after day, renewed and refreshed us. There was at least one point during each day where I simply had to stop, stand and stare. It was empowering to ride through such remote country, entirely self sufficient and experience an America that few see.

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Aaron Rodgers by Mari Schuh


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